Restaurants

After watching a film at the lovely old Phoenix, it’s just the ticket to slip over the road to the Bald-Faced Stag, reinvented by the Realpubs chain as a smart gastropub. The large dining room is all dark wood, with flower arrangements, an open kitchen and subtle lighting. It buzzes loudly with locals when busy, but friendly staff are on-the-ball, happy to advise and pass on customers’ foibles to an adaptable kitchen. There’s a laudable range of beers (including three real ales) and eclectic wine choices. All this, plus a modish menu, raises expectations, which, sadly, weren’t quite met on our visit. A warm pastry tartlet with chorizo and poached egg was sublime, but deep-fried tuna spring rolls were leaden, saved only by a carrot and celeriac salad with punchy wasabi dressing. Sea bass in tarragon velouté with spinach and saffron mash was enormous, yet overcooked and bland. Plain chargrilled seafood (tender squid, juicy scallops, meaty prawns and mussels) tasted fresher and brighter, but didn’t make the earth move. Tempting afters included lemon curd and blueberry mess, and English cheeses.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009