Restaurants

This typically smart Mayfair establishment shares owners with the Bull in Highgate and the House in Islington . In the ground-floor bar where you can also eat, it is loud and brash so as to hurt the head. But there’s hearty grub, good wines and fine ales served by staff who act like they’re interested in the job. Upstairs, things are more tranquil although not dozy. A light pastel-green carpet tastefully coordinates with wallpaper, table linen and upholstered seats. The menu is a world where foie gras terrine shares space with raw tuna and seaweed salad on the list of starters, and where roast dover sole rubs shoulders with veal T-bone for mains. The results are good if not great. Smoked eel went well with asparagus, and grilled sardines were perfectly fresh, but to follow, sea bass (pan-fried, with shallot and coriander mash) and lamb steak were unexceptional. Posh but populist desserts include chewy jam doughnuts and raspberry ice-cream, and rhubarb and sherry trifle. The wine list is well composed.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009