Restaurants

Having opened to some dire reviews, Divo has worked wonders transforming itself from a post-Soviet Ukrainian kitsch temple to a restrained, reasonably priced modern East European restaurant. The surroundings remain ostentatious, with vast chandeliers, heavy drapes and swags galore, yet only a gilt-framed plasma-screen TV (switched off) and the ornate loos betray past excesses. But is it all too late? On a Saturday night things were very quiet (the first floor seemed closed), with little atmosphere and looped muzak. Great sour rye bread accompanied scrumptious starters: a moulded herring, beetroot and potato cake; and meltingly tender smoked salmon with smoked sturgeon and crab. Main courses would have done any of London’s best East European eateries proud: potato pancakes (perfectly chewy with a hint of sourness), stuffed with wild mushrooms; and tender chicken shashlik, with buckwheat, spring onions, pine nuts and light mushroom sauce. A very un-Ukrainian iced passion-fruit mousse with banana and thyme made a light and delicious end to an altogether pleasing meal. Some extremely expensive vodkas and champagnes lurk on the drinks list, yet our very quaffable French rosé was £15. Service is charming too.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009