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By Michela Wrong
On a bleak high street, Biazo offers a mellow escape. A lot of thought clearly went into the bamboo-and-gold decor, and the overall impression is one of elegance and warmth, although the fierce air conditioning - an echo of the stifling Lagos climate - rather dilutes the effect.
The restaurant promises a vague 'true taste of Africa', but the menu's emphasis is solidly Nigerian. Alongside some exotica - cow foot, giant snails and peppered chicken gizzards - it serves up classics such as suya, moi moi, jerk chicken and stewed goat. Service is delightful: our chirpy waitress talked us through the various carbohydrate options, which ranged from jollof rice to banku (maize balls) and dumplings of either pounded yam or kneaded cassava.
Sadly, the food was a touch disappointing. Our prawn starters were dry, the beef stew rather chewy, and if you're not used to large quantities of stodge, the dumplings soon overwhelm. The vegetable options were best: the edikang ikong, a blend of pumpkin leaves and waterleaf, had a pungent smoky flavour, the efo elegusi, a stew of spinach and ground-up melon seeds, was milder but equally delicious.
Biazo opened over the summer, and there's a sense of a restaurant still finding its feet as it seeks to cater to both a local African community and non-African Londoners. At the moment the food isn't really up to the setting, but given the very modest prices, charming atmosphere and generous helpings, you don't leave complaining.
One can't help thinking the no-alcohol policy of the couple running the place - Mrs Olukoya, a devout Christian, is anxious to discourage the rowdies - will (and should) go the way of all flesh. It's not only Londoners who like their beer, and there's no better accompaniment to pepper soup than a bottle of fridge-cold Star.
Time Out London Issue 1939: October 17-23 2007
London's best review, food and drink news
Took my mother here for mothers day after spotting it while passing on the bus. Took a note of the website and booked a table online, the booking was dealt with promptly and an email confirmation sent.
On arriving we were greeted by a lovely freindly waiter who let us choose a table as we got there early. The decor is very modern and has an african earlthly feel to it with strips of lit bamboo around the walls, it felt new and was clean which is very important to us.
Onto the food, the menu is vast and if you dont know what you want then the staff are happy to help you, our friendly chefess came out of the kitchen to help us select a good mixture of dishes. We started with roasted plantain and fried yam, both absoltely delicious but also very filling for a starter. For main we tried the Jerk Chicken, Fried Stewed Fish, Jollof rice and moi-moi bean cake. The amounts were plentiful and we both were very satisfied and full after the meal, I even took home the leftover jollof rice which will easily feed me two more times!
The cost of the meal came in at just over 30 pounds including service (we had soft drinks with the main), which i think is very reasonable for what we had. I enjoyed the experience and the food and will definately go back again.
One thing that is unique about Biazo is the staff, having someone explain the menu or should I say even be keen to talk about their food is a rarity in london, it gave it more of a personal touch to think they were interested in us enjoying new tastes and experimenting. Recommended.
I went to Biazo on Valentines Day with my Partner we wanted to try something different. It was well busy as you would expect for a day like this. We booked in advance to ensure we had a table. We were welcomed and ushered to our table. My first visit to an African restaurant, the ambience was absolutely lovely. The Bamboo with the integrated rope lights, the candle lit table made it all very romantic. The lights were about the right level. We were also giving a free glass of non-alcoholic red wine which was a surprise and a really nice gesture by the management. The menu was a set one for this day and I opted for the Pounded yam with spinach and my partner had the whole grilled fish. For starters we had gizzard and plantain which was absolutely delicious. My partner loved the fish and plantain. The pounded yam was really nice tasted almost like a more solid version of mashed potato. On its own it taste a bit bland but with the spicy efo as they call it with was like a match made in heaven. The vegetable dish was very tasty. I had assorted meat as well cooked in some sort of slightly spicy tomato stew, the meat was soft and succulent, the whole combination really worked well for me I really enjoyed the experience so did my partner. There was a delay in the service which for a busy night was expected but the food made up for it. I will gladly go back again.
To start with I was looking for an African restaurant in North London did a search and came across biazo. Please note this is a real coincidence as I bear no relation to the first reviewer. Reading the review I still felt it was worth a try and the ambiance looked quite nice. What also caught me was the fact that it was stated as mainly Nigerian in the review. Having worked in Nigeria for 3 years and not tasted Nigeria dishes in years this of course generated more interest. To start with "bleak high street of " of course not the street is littered with restaurant, Italian, Jewish, India plus of course African a very wide choice. On getting in we were welcomed in by a pleasant waitress. The restaurant was warm and cosy and I was taken aback by the ambiance I have not really visited an African restaurant in London but this was very well done and tastefully decorated I was well impressed.
"a true taste of Africa" the menu is rightly mainly Nigerian and Ghanaian symbolising West Africa, the waitress did mention they would be adding East and Central and South African dishes to the menu. Being familiar with Nigerian dishes I knew what I wanted. The non-alcohol policy was a bit disappointing and I asked why, the waitress said it was a management decision, this was really not a show stopper for me we ordered a bottle of there Non-alcoholic wine which was surprising not bad. I ordered the Gizzard and Plantain for my girl friend and Suya for myself. Suya in Nigeria is grilled on coal and what I got took me back to my days is Lagos it was absolutely tasty the meat succulent and brought on a sizzler quite unusual. My Girl friend enjoyed the Gizzard and Plantain, she said "slightly tough but nice"
I ordered the Pounded yam, edikang ikong and assorted meat, this I had been looking forward to as I used to have this when I go to Port Harcourt, the above review is a bit biased as African are know for there starchy food but this is complemented with vegetable dishes and they have an abundance of this it is obvious the reviewer does not have much experience of African food. My girl friend ordered The Whole Grilled fish with plantain.
My meal was well presented the vegetable dish was very rich in flavour and taste it reminded me of the Buka by my office in Port Harcourt I soon asked for a wash hand bowl and tucked away at the pounded yam and meat. Usually the meat in Nigeria when served in soup is quite chewy this is I must saw was surprising soft. My girl friend was initially shocked when she saw the size of the Grilled fish, it was massive, served with plantain and a mild chilly sauce she soon emptied the plate and she complemented it was the best grilled fish she has had. The fish was succulent and the chilly not too hot the plantain she could not finish as I said it was a massive meal.
Overall good value for money, very good food and most importantly there was no long wait common with restaurant back in Nigeria, brilliant ambiance and service. I would be going back for the Pepper soup next time although it would have been nice to have been able to have a bottle of Guider with it but hey no show stopper for me.