Restaurants

By Guy Dimond

Ask Japanese people - the ones who get to dine out on expenses, that is - to name London's best Japanese restaurants, and their eyes glaze over : 'Aah, Chisou. Now that has the real taste of home.' And it's true: Chisou in Mayfair serves dishes that are as fresh, correct, and unadulterated as good restaurants in Japan.

Seeing the success of lesser sushi chains around London, it's little wonder that Chisou's taken the opportunity to expand next door and open a fast-food sushi place. But Go Chisou is nothing like as high-end as Chisou; sushi is plastic-packed and sold from a takeaway counter, and only made to order if you request it. The service is also distinctly un-Japanese in its informality. Superficially, it's just like scores of other sushi takeaway bars around London, with non-Japanese staff preparing and serving the dishes.

The tranquil and attractive back room is a good place to peruse the menu of classic sushi and sashimi, or the more innovative maki (rolls) such as chopped amberjack (a tuna-like fish) with tempura flakes and spicy mayonnaise rolled inside out. That's as wild as the menu gets; the kitchen's stuck to classic combinations which they know will work. Try Go Chisou when you want something better than a Pret sushi pack.

Time Out London Issue 1941: October 31-November 6 2007