Restaurants

By Andrew Staffell

Opulence on a budget is a bit of a contradiction in terms: best not to attempt it. Unfortunately, new 'members' club' (you don't actually have to join) and restaurant Vanilla has disregarded this wisdom - and you can tell that they're really hoping you don't notice.

The puffed-up press release invoked one superlative too many. The chap who took my reservation was a little too serious. There were one too many smart waiters milling around aimlessly. All trying to distract us, it seemed, from the faux lavishness that, despite crystal chandeliers, mirror effects and jazzy lighting, feels a bit plastic.

It doesn't help that the decor is so extreme. In the bar, absolutely everything is white; the chandeliers and mirrors add a whimper of glitz. It's too bright. In the restaurant, by contrast, everything is black, and it's way too dark. We struggled to read our menus.

The cocktails and food were, in fact, very good. The set menu lists six each of starters, mains and desserts. It's an ambitious, slightly fussy, Mod Euro ensemble, and mostly delivers on its pretensions. A twice-baked cheese soufflé with pear and celeriac salsa was an accomplished, original starter. A main course of sea bass with edamame beans, artichoke hearts and a vanilla and amaretto sauce was a controversial combination, but we thought it worked. The restaurant was mostly empty; the atmosphere remained sombre.

It was busier back in the bar, but we didn't think anyone was really feeling it. The different groups of people didn't seem to gel beneath the bright lights and funky house soundtrack. A bit more modesty and they might have achieved something credible for the budget; for us, this discount decadence just didn't flavour the custard.

Time Out London Issue 1932: August 29-September 4 2007