Restaurants

By Jenni Muir

Branches of Hampstead's Hi Sushi bar have recently sprung up in Golders Green and North Finchley but this new Camden Lock spot - all dark wood and disco beats - is very different.

The aim is a fusion of Japanese and Latin American themes, a concept first made popular by chef and worldwide restaurant phenomenon Nobu Matsuhisa. Nobu's influence is apparent here in the soft shell crab hand-roll and salmon 'carpaccio' topped with gingery, hot olive oil dressing. Both were good, but overall we were disappointed by the lack of fiery flavours or culinary ambition - the menu only gives a nod to Latin American ingredients. Razor clams with fresh mint salsa sounded good but was unavailable. Juicy miso-marinated ribs came very lightly drizzled with chocolate sauce - more like a mistake than a mole - though this was one of the better dishes. We also appreciated the expert cooking of the lovely rock shrimps in the 'signature dish' but the dressing was bland and boring.

On the other hand, Japanese influences were limited on the cocktails menu - a good saketini and a green tea mojito - the rest was a collection of vividly flavoured concoctions great for a night out but not suited to the food. We asked for the sake list and instead were brought a jug of sake.
The sight of six grown men shoehorn-ing themselves into sunken seating better suited to four bodes strangely well. This is a fun place. The music, from a roster of DJs, is great (if too loud for the time of our visit) and should London ever see sun again, the outdoor waterfront seating is an appealing destination.

Time Out Issue 1932: August 29-September 4 2007