Restaurants

First, find the locked alley door in Landor Road, just to the side of the noisy Clapham North pub. Ring the buzzer to gain admission, then head up a whiffy fire escape to a smart, separate restaurant above the pub, where the windows give a grandstand view of the constant commotion around Clapham North tube station. Chef Iain Smart’s background at acclaimed French restaurant Chez Bruce shows in the precision timing and presentation of dishes, such as a summery plate of grilled plaice with peas, broad beans and brown shrimps with a light dill velouté, or a scoop of crabmeat and shredded mango served with baby spinach leaves. The standard of cooking is very high – though we didn’t see the point of adding coriander to the broth that accompanied a roll of tender pork belly and bean salad. And a dark, correctly sour gazpacho would have been better without a scattering of almond flakes, and with a bit more garlic instead. For sophisticated food at such high prices (starters around £7, mains around £17, desserts £6), the service was oddly amateurish on our visit. Our booking was lost; wrong orders plonked on our table; a waitress couldn’t pronounce the ‘semillon’ of our wine order. But around us, the well-to-do Clapham crowd seemed very pleased to have found this newcomer.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008