Restaurants

Set at the front of the refurbished Royal Festival Hall (in what used to be the People’s Palace), this lofty space – with a fantastic view of the Thames – is divided into three separate destinations: a raised bar in the centre separates the formal restaurant area from the more casual brasserie. The room is dominated by five enormous bespoke bronze chandeliers, their lozenge shape and ring of fins one of many subtle references to design details around the recently refurbished main building. Chef Helena Puolakka’s menus contain the likes of Swedish classic jansson’s temptation, and the Finnish-style hot-smoked-to-order fish dishes; there’s even a hamburger on the brasserie menu, though no meatballs. Well-judged flavour combinations were a hallmark of our meal in the brasserie area. A good rendition of gazpacho was judiciously spiked with sherry vinegar, but the show-stopper was a risotto of crab, cream and pearled spelt. Disappointments included a gritty side dish of spinach and fried onions, a dull coconut tart, and the wine list (which offers little under £5 per 175ml glass). The brasserie is expensive, but the restaurant’s even dearer – for dishes such as fricassee of morels and young vegetables, or sea bass en papillote with Spanish ham, fennel, olives and puy lentils. Staff are friendly – and their Star Trek uniforms are a fashion sensation.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008