Restaurants

Since opening in 2003, this sleek, family-run venture has garnered a following of customers discussing business over an impeccable lunch, or dining peacefully in refined surroundings come evening. Maria Patterson runs front-of-house with a knowledgeable personal touch. The evening’s specials were explained in enough detail to set mouths watering, keen advice was proffered on food-and-wine matching, and queries answered on the spot. Behind the scenes, husband Raymond specialises in sourcing British meat, while langoustine, lobster and crabs arrive from his hometown of Eyemouth, Scotland. Each course is charged at a flat rate and you almost wish they weren’t – that way, at least, you would have some way to choose from a menu where everything delights. Squab breast on potato and apple parmentier paired with foie gras parfait was an accomplished starter, while the assiette of suckling pig teased us with the tastes and textures of crisp bacon, tender confit of shoulder, and three dainty cutlets. Puddings (£10) include glammed-up versions of favourites such as chocolate brownie and crème brûlée, while the international wine list (which starts at £22) has a French bias. If we were to look for fault, the halibut wrapped in prosciutto was a touch dry – but overall, this place is a joy.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009