Restaurants

The reinvention of Odette’s under the ownership of impresario Vince Power has brought some striking changes to this NW1 old-timer. The interior, by Shaun Clarkson, is one example. You’ll either like the egg-yolk yellow leather chairs and banquettes against white painted brick walls (in the back room), the statement wallpaper (in the front room) and the dark, moody bar area (in the basement), or you’ll pine for the old-fashioned romance of yesteryear. You will like the food, though; Bryn Williams cooks like a dream, from delicate amuses-bouche to utterly delicious petits fours (most notably the whiter-than-white, lighter-than-air marshmallows). Best dishes from a memorable meal were seared and ceviched hand-dived scallops with fennel and basil salad (a starter), and ice strawberry parfait with poached strawberries and strawberry jam doughnuts. There are some quibbles: the tables are really close together, so it’s hard to avoid hearing other people’s conversation (a gastric bypass on one side, the charms of Dubai on the other); and the prices (£3.50 for an espresso) are at odds with the fact that Odette’s still feels like a local restaurant despite the haute nature of the food and service. Even so, well worth visiting.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008