Restaurants

Under chef Bryn Williams, a representative of Wales in the second Great British Menu series, the new-look Odette’s has become more than a useful local in a chi-chi enclave. Prices appear high and inflexible, though there are no unexpected extras to pay, and a Mozart piano concerto sets a serious tone. Napkin-fluttering service was irksome; on the plus side ‘pollock for madam?’ gave us a new catchphrase. Said sustainable fish sprouting squid tentacles was accompanied by concentric rings of baby squid, rather hard chickpeas, chorizo and a pink, chorizo-spiked foam. Artful. Sea trout fell into beautiful thick flakes; freshly podded peas, pea shoots and horseradish cream set it off well. Lamb on asparagus and a pair of cheesy potato croquettes came with a copper pan of peeled broad beans stewed with tomato. So far so lovely. Raspberry jelly with ice-cream and berries appealed more than strawberry cheesecake and peanut butter parfait on a not-very-compelling pudding list. With the front completely open to the street and tables continuing seamlessly from the flamboyantly wallpapered dining room on to the pavement, joining the gregarious throng on the bold yellow chairs can feel like gatecrashing a Primrose Hill party. Outsiders might feel more at home in the contrastingly calm white-painted conservatory at the back.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009