Restaurants

Frederick’s certainly looks a class act. Behind the traditional frontage lies a series of surprises, as you pass from the plush bar down into the glass-vaulted Garden Room. Here, stylish artwork decorates the walls, and doors open on to a pretty terrace, producing one of the most striking dining spaces in town. The problem on our visit was with the food. The menu is fairly traditional French, with a few Brit touches. Chicken liver and foie gras terrine turned out to be an over-liverish pâté, totally out of kilter with the too-sweet grape chutney that came with it. A salad featured quite pleasant roast peppers amid a pile of rocket, but also mozzarella that was distinctly rubbery. Mains were just plain bland: fillet of sea bream with dull mushrooms and (yes!) tasty smoked garlic mash; and côte de boeuf that was ordered rare but arrived with burnt edges, accompanied by nearly flavourless béarnaise sauce. Service began disorganised, though it got better; the wine list is pricey, yet ambitious. Our impression on this occasion was of a place that’s all fancy packaging with nothing special inside.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008