Restaurants

Imported from a Nice original by Arjun Waney, principal owner of Japanese hotspots Zuma and Roka, La Petite Maison has become a hotspot too. Inside, linen curtains and frosted glass block out the ugly road, but allow in much natural light. Chairs and tables are close together. You’re meant to order many dishes to share. Deep-fried courgette flowers were great, with pale, gauzy batter, but were trumped by sage leaves and anchovies sandwiched together and deep-fried with the same coating; intense red pepper sauce paired well with the onion rings on the same ‘trois saveurs de beignets’ platter. On the next table, a bowl of bright, squeaky fine beans studded with tiny cubes of foie gras looked so good we had to order it; chopped shallots worked a treat in the salty, crunchy dressing. To follow, there are several fish and seafood options. We opted for scallop carpaccio, the silky discs topped with herbs, lemon zest and almond flakes: marvellous. A small filleted, salt-baked sea bass came secreted under deep-fried artichoke, tomato and teeny girolles mushrooms: excellent, but costly at £28. Staff were bright, chatty and vivacious. The France-dominated wine list contains seven Provence rosés, including an elegantly fruity Château de Roquefort Carail 2006. For dessert, the huge crème brûlée ranks among London’s best.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008