Restaurants

Back in 2007 we voted Trinity our Best Local Restaurant, and nothing has changed to blunt our enthusiasm. It’s still an outstandingly slick operation, passionately run by chef/proprietor Adam Byatt, who combines top-quality cooking and pristine presentation with some surprisingly easy prices. Dishes on the eclectic but vaguely French menu are listed by their three main ingredients (yes, hence the trinity…). So, you can start with ‘pea-mint-crème fraîche’ (a mild, chilled soup embellished with pea tendrils) and follow with ‘beef-girolles-spinach’ (a cluttered landscape of succulent rare beef, mushrooms, marrow and an intense red wine jus). There’s no skimping on portions. A risotto of girolles, peas and pecorino was mounded high; a starter of ‘sardines-almond-pesto’ resembled posh sardines on toast (or wafer thin tart base), ringed by glorious dollops of thick almond ‘soup’. The tasting menu gets you six mini-portions: a good choice if you’re not ravenous. ‘Chocolate-ice-cream-gru de cacao’ is the pick of the puddings. The weighty wine list majors in France, but we tried a delightful Paper Road pinot noir from New Zealand. All this takes place in a cool modern interior, with muted canvases on the walls, fold-back windows, white linen and an eager posse of telepathic French waiting staff.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009