Restaurants

Chef/owner Adam Byatt ran Claphams much-acclaimed Thyme a few years ago; hes returned to the area and to form with Trinity, a textbook model of a great local restaurant. The room is stylish but not flashy, with well-spaced circular tables and foldback windows that are a boon on warm evenings. Staff were impeccable: informed, attentive, with a personal touch that makes every diner feel special. The judiciously chosen wine list caters for all price points. And the food was sublime. Hardened carnivores fare well (braised pigs head), as do lovers of the luxurious (lobster, truffles), but vegetarians get a look-in too. Each dish is listed by its three main ingredients: a starter of mackerel, cucumber, horseradish involved sweet, juicy mackerel fillets, with a smear of not-too-strong horseradish cream plus pickled cucumber in the form of tiny cubes and little curls (dishes look as good as they taste). Beef, oxtail, bone marrow (a main) comprised pot au feu of longhorn beef soft as butter with punchy oxtail ravioli, bone marrow and a stew of summer vegetables. For dessert, we bravely resisted the temptation of chocolate, chocolate, chocolate in favour of passionfruit sorbet (intensely flavoured, perfect texture). Pricing is very reasonable for cooking of this quality, and the set menus, especially the lunch offering, are an absolute bargain. A holy Trinity, indeed.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008