Restaurants

An old warehouse a skip from Smithfield Market is home to this rather charming three-in-one restaurant: Le Grenier, up a corkscrew staircase on the first floor; at ground level, the brasserie-style Le Rendezvous that specialises in grills and frites; and Le Café, where we had our merry evening meal. The first thing you notice is the cheerfulness of the all-French staff, and (telling sign) how well they enjoy each other’s company. Their good mood swells the rising enjoyment among diners, which is further boosted by a jazz pianist, romantic lighting and a commendably gentle touch with the decorations of Gallic bric-a-brac (this place is French, but it doesn’t feel the need to ram the fact down your gullet). We went for the set meal, kicking off with venison carpaccio and grilled sardines with a fennel risotto – both excellent – and moving on to succulent guinea hen, and quasi d’agneau with girolle mushrooms. In lieu of dessert, we spent the extra £4 on a wonderfully whiffy cheeseboard. The wine list is strong on good, assertive French reds (our Gigondas nicely cut the mustard), and the digestif list includes a silky smooth calvados. Great fun.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008