Restaurants

Weve tried more than 20 dishes at this north Indian restaurant, owned by Sikh musician Satwinder Singh (Papaji is a term of endearment that refers to elderly north Indian men). Theres been only one dud. It was butter chicken, served in a lacklustre, tikka masala-style sauce; we sent it back, and it was swiftly replaced with another, incomparably more delicious chicken curry. There was much else to admire and enjoy, like lamb kebabs that let the spices embellish rather than mask the high quality of meat; perky potato, sweetcorn, cashew and tapioca patties; stridently flavoured mustard leaf, fresh fenugreek and spinach curry; and velvety yoghurt soup in which pakoras had been soaked for long enough to take on the pillowy, comforting texture of dumplings. Its not easy to make Punjabi food contemporary: the flavours are earthy and homely, textures tend to be mushy, and dishes lack the elegant razzle-dazzle of their sexier Awadhi and Mughlai cousins. But here, the talented Andhra-born head chef Mahesh Flora (from the Taj hotel in Mumbai) and his three-strong brigade from Delhi and Dubai have kept the dishes true to their peasant roots, while bringing them into the 21st century. Well be back for 20 more, as long as Flora and team keep churning them out.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008