Restaurants

The converted arches of Albert Embankment bear an uncanny resemblance to those in EastEnders, and produce a similarly dodgy atmosphere. Four lanes of unrelenting traffic further make this an odd choice of location for the Madeira delicatessen, bakery and café. The café is the most popular arm of the operation and much bigger than expected, its interior enhanced by white tiles and walls and upstairs seating. A huge mounted TV holds the attention of many customers: mostly middle-aged businessmen. Regrettably, Madeira’s Portuguese specialities have recently taken second place to an array of sandwiches for the business types. Nevertheless, on our visit there was a traditional feijão com grão (beans with chickpeas and pork), packed with chunks of succulent chorizo and costing only £5. Pity that it’s usually served only at weekends. Thankfully, the drinks menu is more reminiscent of the old country, boasting Super Bock and Sagres beers along with a wealth of Portuguese soft drinks. A good-value pit-stop only a short walk from the train station.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008