Restaurants

Opinion remains divided about the name, but this runner-up in the 2007 Cheap Eats category of the Time Out Eating and Drinking Awards continues to thrive. Risotto is the USP, though there are plenty of alternatives: tiger prawns (three big juicy fellows) with garlic, chilli and trebbiano to start, say, or fresh pasta of the day, or slow-roast lamb shank with creamed potatoes to follow. On a cold, rainy night, two meaty risottos (ribeye with sweet onions, rocket and montepulciano wine, and pancetta with rosemary, borlotti beans and radicchio) hit the spot – both punchily flavoured and very filling. On balmier evenings you might plump for alle vongole (with clams, trebbiano, chilli and garlic), or funghi (with a mix of dried and fresh mushrooms and rosemary). Most of the risottos come in two sizes: small isn’t really that small and costs £6.50-£7.95; large is £8.50-£13.95. Desserts include a nice range of own-made ice-creams alongside traditional favourites like panacotta and tiramisu, a tart of the day and a selection of Italian cheeses. Service is genuinely smiley, and there’s a nicely priced wine list. The pared-down, gently-modern decor looks briskly efficient at lunchtimes, while clever lighting makes it seem cosier by night.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009