Restaurants

With its canteen-like feel and retro-modern trappings, Hamburger Union’s rapidly expanding chain – six in London, up to ten due to roll out across the Middle East – seems to have inadvertently set the template for the recent makeovers at McDonald’s. Despite great claims for the provenance of its grass-reared beef, this fast-food feel is carried over to the burgers. Our bacon cheeseburger was flaccid and tasteless (not least the bacon, which was practically translucent). On the other hand, there’s an imaginative menu, including an unctuous, paprika-packed chorizo sandwich and citrus-marinated halloumi cheese. Milkshakes come in ice-cold metal buckets, and there are Chegworth juices and Fentimans soft drinks too. For the diet-conscious, burgers are available bread-free, for everyone else, we heartily recommend a bowl of the fat, golden and fluffy fries, which always disappear fast on our visits.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009