Restaurants

As well as spreading quickly through the usual haunts Islington and Hampstead Hamburger Union has also developed quite a footprint in central London, with four branches boasting WC or W1 postcodes. The Tottenham Court Road restaurant has a prominent corner site on Goodge Street and packs in the lunchtime customers with its promise of quick, easy but low-guilt meat (cows are grass-reared). Red meat options are relatively straightforward. Only the chorizo, paying homage to the Brindisa stall in Borough Market, breaks new ground. Beef is succulent, and the encasing ciabatta-like buns are sturdy; chips are fat, but we found them lacking in flavour. Vegetarian burgers include an excellent citrus-marinated halloumi with beetroot. In all, a satisfactory operation although extra marks are garnered for a drinks menu that includes Hook Norton Best Bitter, Fentimans Ginger Beer and Chegworth juices.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008