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The bizarre tone of the decor, the enthusiasm of the staff, the skill and exuberance of the chef (Yang Xiukui, from Chengdu) and the wonderful aromas are testament to the authenticity of Londons latest exponent of Sichuanese food. The two-tier dining room is decorated with flimsy magenta curtains, bold paintings and a Cultural Revolution poster. Surrounded by hip Chinese students, we enjoyed the fiery, ma-la (hot and numbing) fare. Sichuan-style beef, cold thin slices of lung swimming in chilli oil and peanut pieces, was sensational. Equally good was white-braised pork belly in a spicy sesame oil and garlic sauce. Next, ma po dofu had firm beancurd with spring onions in a spicy, aromatic sauce accented with numbing sichuan peppercorns. Gong bao intestines was pigs offal with peanuts and red chillies in a sweet-and-sour sauce. Yu xiang qiezi (fish-flavoured aubergine) was given depth by pickled chillies, garlic and ginger sweet, sour, spicy and hot, this dish is a gem of Sichuanese cuisine and was perfectly prepared. Sadly, the hotpot menu is not translated into English, but dont let that deter you from trying this DIY treat where you add ingredients to a bubbling cauldron.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
London's best review, food and drink news