Restaurants

Part of Young’s expanding portfolio of riverside gastropubs, the Waterfront follows the Waterside in Chelsea, the Duke’s Head in Putney and the Riverside in Vauxhall. Here, the huge, multi-levelled room is decorated in a mishmash of modern styles. It looks more bar than gastropub: floor-to-ceiling windows, chandeliers, centrepiece leather booths, and tables of different shapes. Numerous outdoor benches overlook an unlovely stretch of the Thames, nice in summer nonetheless. Starters were above average: an interesting (if fridge-cold) terrine made with aubergines and puréed tomato, and high-quality gravadlax. Mains were unremarkable, though perhaps we chose badly; mushroom risotto was bland. A caesar salad with grilled chicken was fresh-tasting and generously portioned; we had no complaints. The meal might have been improved had we room for dessert; in the past we’ve been impressed by an exciting apple crumble, drizzled with crème anglaise. Young’s beers and wines are of the usual excellent class. Staff in sleek black shirts were charming. It’s hard to imagine anyone travelling far to come here – this corner of SW18 has all the character of a supermarket car park – but for residents of the new Battersea Reach development in which it’s housed, the Waterfront will be a wonderful boon.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008