Restaurants

The name of this large corner boozer hints at an age when hat-makers abounded in Clerkenwell. Derelict for years, the H&F reopened as a two-floor gastropub in 2006, the new management retaining its lovely acid-etched windows and wood panelling. Modern European cuisine is served on the first floor, where chef Adam Culverwell has created an interesting menu that hits more often than it misses. Pan-fried scallops with parsnip purée, lemon dressing and pea shoots was a well-presented, successful combination of moist, sweet and tart ingredients. However, caramelised onion tart was disappointing; the onions weren’t caramelised, and had simply been piled on to a puff-pastry base. The kitchen had run out of fillet of beef with anchovy crumb and horseradish, so we opted for lamb rump with sweetbreads, butternut and mint purée – a fine chunk of juicy meat swimming in delicious Madeira gravy. We passed on dessert, though were tempted by banana split and tiramisu. The wine list is admirably broad, with 12 bottles under £20 and five wines by the glass, and the French waiters were warm and welcoming. A massive new outdoor terrace was added in time for summer 2007.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008