Restaurants

Despite its name, the Temperance hasn’t gone off the sauce. On our visit, there was Greene King IPA and Adnams Broadside on draught, and decent wines by the glass. The decor is as fresh as spring rain and the smell of varnish wafts about the dark wood and blood-red interior. On the ground floor you’ll find upmarket bar snacks, like British tapas: paprika chicken, soused herrings, fried artichoke and beetroot (all £3.50). On the first floor, the small dining room looks like a Victorian lady’s boudoir, with gold-toned flock wallpaper and a lavish flower arrangement. The only touch of restraint comes from the no-nonsense menu, comprising about four starters and puds, plus six or so main courses and a few side dishes. ‘Tomato, purple basil and brie tart’ was served tepid and, though the combination of flavours was good, the dish lacked character. ‘Leg of lamb steak, boulangère potato’ was underseasoned, the meat overcooked. ‘Swordfish loin, beetroot, rocket pesto’ lacked verve and cried out for sharpness – lemon juice or capers, say. More thought seems to have gone into the decor than the food, but the Temperance is a safe bet for a drink.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008