Restaurants

As casual barbecue joints go, they dont get more casual and barbecuey than this new joint, which sits incongruously in quiet, upmarket Wapping. Its design is simple; plain whitewashed brick walls are covered in brightly coloured reviews written by customers (ask for a pen to add your own). Theres a tiny kitchen tucked away among the unornamented tables and chairs, but not much else to distinguish the place except the sweet, smoky smell of barbecue. All cooking is done offsite in an enormous smokehouse, but that sweet smell pervades the place all the same. The offsite grilling causes purists to raise eyebrows sharply, but if you didnt know the meat was cooked elsewhere youd be hard-pressed to guess it. Chicken, beef and pork are all barbecued well. The sauce is the perfect mix of sweet with a tangy edge. The cuts of meat are generally good; tender pork shoulder and juicy beef ribs didnt disappoint, although the beef was the tiniest bit chewy. Platters are served with flavourful beans and fresh, cold coleslaw as all good barbecue should be. Desserts are largely limited to delightfully strange smoked fruit: light and unique. Certainly worth the trip to Wapping.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008