Restaurants

This Chelsea Market outlet of El Gaucho looks like the genuine Argentinian article. It’s a small shack-like affair, with a grill on view to all just a few feet from the tables. These are lined up so that everyone eats communally. The house malbec wine is served by the glass and pairs very well with the juicy chicken empanadas – perhaps the best in London. Nice cobs of bread, olives and a pot of chimichurri sauce arrive as standard. Our chorizo sausage was a bit dull; it’s the one starter worth skipping. In contrast, the beef was excellent: slightly fattier than at other Latin American steakhouses, but charred to give it a smoky bite. More salt would have helped, but perhaps the Chelsea clientele likes to control the condiments. The experience here is no frills, no fuss, no extras, but the atmosphere is convivial and, thanks to the energetic maître d’ from Buenos Aires, just like being in a little place on the River Plate. Note that this branch is not open in the evening, though it’s far more fun than the South Kensington basement outlet, which always feels tired and lacklustre.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008