Restaurants

A disappointing night at Momo? We regret it can happen. On our visit an unsmiling waiter and grumpy maître d’ stage-whispering malevolently into the ears of the staff failed to create a happy atmosphere. A couple of slips like that and other questions spring to mind. Do the tightly packed tables encourage sociability, or are they a cynical way to cram in more diners? Great cocktails, but why so pricey? Still, the usually high reputation, great Maghrebi soundtrack, cool Marrakech-style decor and some of the best North African food in London keep punters pouring in. Birthdays are celebrated in style: the music is ratcheted up a few notches and the glam young staff get everyone up, clapping and dancing round the room. Starters range from traditional briouats and zaalouk to fusion dishes like scrumptiously sweet sea-fresh scallops with beetroot, and mixed seafood with falafel in a light saffron sauce. The usual tagines and couscous rise to new heights here. Our chicken couscous was fabulous: marinated cumin-infused grilled breast with earthily spiced broth and tender veg; harissa with coriander; and astonishingly light, almost silkily fine couscous. Not infallible, then, but still an experience to savour.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009