Restaurants

A few yards east of the dreary Holborn crossroads is the Chancery Court Hotel. Its hand-sculpted follies, turrets and general historical loveliness are worth standing back to admire before turning your attention to the other lovely business of eating. Jun Tanaka’s modern French food is served in a dauntingly lofty space, which once saw action as the banking hall of the old Pearl Assurance HQ, hence the name and hand-strung crystal beads dripping from every ledge and light fitting. An excellent job has been made of softening the acoustics and machismo of the place by adding warm stretches of walnut veneer and touches of palest pink in the flatware and flowers. Diners now include a decent showing of ladies-who-lunch, along with the suited business folk. Tanaka’s background is part Asian, and his approach is only very loosely French: sometimes novel, sometimes classical, sometimes purely British, but always deft, light and seasonal. Main-course partridge – two tender breasts, crisp de-boned legs and ravioli – with chestnut purée, sprouts and mirror-finish jus was a superb example of his art. Vegetarians fare well, and a baked goat’s cheese relished the company of baby beetroots, succulent perfumed quince and banana shallots. Spectacular desserts follow the form, as do bread, canapés, many well-cared-for wines by the glass and a new gourmet beer menu.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009