Restaurants

Czech/Slovak food is never going to win prizes for subtlety: think dumplings, potatoes and cream by the bucket-load. Even early in the week, the Czechoslovak Restaurant buzzes with a diverse crowd cocking a snook at healthy eating: young Czechs and Slovaks; older workmen downing a Budva; enthusiastic language-learners trying out their Czech on a patient waiter; and happy diners with no Czech links, just enjoying the charmingly old-fashioned, laid-back vibe. In the communist era, this was a club for exiles. It’s now achingly nostalgic, rejoicing in swirly carpets and patriotic paintings. Hearty chicken noodle or creamy sour-cabbage soups set the tone to start. If you’re feeling adventurous, try utopenec v octe (pickled sausage) or bramborák se slaninou (potato pancake with extraordinarily fat bacon). Portions are enormous. You’ll feel close to explosion if you finish your carp fried in breadcrumbs (which comes with enough potato salad to feed a small family), or crumbly roast lamb in a sea of creamy spinach sauce with knedliky. And you’ll need the good Czech beer to wash it all down and make room for… more dumplings, apricot this time, swimming in butter. Retro heaven.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009