Restaurants

By day, head to Café Wanda for coffee and decadent, own-made Polish cheesecakes. In the evening, out come the candles and the place transforms into an old-fashioned, slightly eccentric neighbourhood restaurant. There are hanging spider plants not seen since the 1970s and an unashamedly ’80s soundtrack. Café Wanda attracts local Poles, many of whom seem to be regulars, and the sorts of young Claphamites who value the place’s individuality. The menu roams from western to eastern Europe, where the attention focuses on a short list of Polish specialities. We were most impressed by a shared starter of intensely flavoured, tender little mixed pierogi, good enough to make a homesick Pole shed a nostalgic tear. Main courses are of generous proportions. Klopsy – big pork meatballs stuffed with mushrooms – served with aromatic kasha and topped with mushroom sauce, was a luscious winter chill-chaser. Golabki had a high rice-to-meat ratio in the stuffing, but were lighter for it; our only grumble was the blandness of the mashed potato that accompanied it. For afters, those afore-mentioned homemade cheesecakes will easily fill any empty spaces that might remain.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008