Restaurants

Kensal Rise is on to a good thing. The green sponge-painted walls, the photograph of the Thai king, and the old refrigerator in the corner (topped with a laughing Buddha), may make you feel like you’ve stumbled into a Thai granny’s sitting room. But at Tong Kanom Thai you also get live (and loud) traditional music. The staff’s friendly, casual manner, and the simple good flavours of the dishes add to the homely feel of this enticing spot. The menu contains some real gems and is excellent value. Chicken wrapped in pandan leaves was outstanding: the meat infused with lemongrass and steamed to fragrant perfection. Salad of beef with fresh herbs and spring onions showed signs of how prices are kept so low – the iceberg lettuce was a bit dull – but as the dish cost just £4.80, it’s hard to complain. A red curry was hearty if not quite spicy enough. We preferred the fresh, flavourful stir-fried morning glory with garlic and chilli. Desserts are specials that change periodically – perhaps alphonso mangoes with sticky coconut rice. On the night of our visit, one local couple arrived with a bottle of champagne. With most dishes costing less than £5, it’s quite possible to push the boat out in such a fashion.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009