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This recent Docklands opening cheekily styles itself the best Spanish restaurant in the City. As it happens, wed be hard pressed to disagree, overlooking the detail that its outside the boundaries of the Square Mile. In fact, El Faro benefits from a great position, overlooking the serene waters of the old Millwall Docks. Though the building is part of a dull modern development, the interior has been converted into an elegant, stylish dining room, populated by properly laid, chunky dark-wood tables and slick black leather chairs. The cooking leans towards traditional Spanish styles, but has some nueva cocina flourishes, especially in its exemplary dish presentation. We found nothing to criticise in starters of battered squid with romesco sauce or marinated suckling pig with honey, and shared an outstanding main course of pork medallions with a cream and ceps sauce. Theres a first-rate selection of Riojas on the all-Spanish wine list. For those who live and work in the area, this is a must; for others, it might be too much of a hike though if youre prepared to make the trip, youre unlikely to be disappointed.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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