Restaurants

To look at, this recent addition to Twickenham’s dining scene has nothing to distinguish it from any local tapas restaurant: the decor is a Mediterranean synthesis of white walls, terracotta-tiled floor, wooden chairs and oilcloths on the tables, but hardly striking. Good thing chef-restaurateur John McClements (who also owns adjoining French restaurants La Brasserie and Ma Cuisine) is a better cook than interior designer, for the menu surpasses such forgettable surrounds. The remit is wider than just Spain, with the likes of halloumi, houmous and chicken tagine on the menu. The selection of hot and cold tapas is not as interesting as the ‘speciality’ list, which includes Moroccan pigeon bastilla, snails with jabugo ham in a dinky pastry case, and zarzuela (the Basque shellfish stew – here an impressively overflowing bowlful). Clams with chickpeas and chorizo was earthy and hearty; gazpacho was suitably thick and tangy. The quality of meat and its preparation was excellent; the use of herbs and spices expert. Yet the tapas cost only £4 each or thereabout – even a small plate of jabugo ham, which routinely sells for £12 or more in lesser venues. Service was charming, though staff could perhaps be better informed. And the wine list is no more than decent: ironic, given the restaurant’s name.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008