Restaurants

More luxe than the River Café, while not as salacious as Locanda Locatelli, the decor at Theo Randall’s hotel-restaurant is comfortably glamorous with thick Frette linens, large vases of bow-headed sunflowers, and simple modern artwork. The set lunch menu offers superb value and little sense of compromise on the à la carte. Complimentary bruschetta was the apotheosis of tomatoes on toast, with soft, ripe fruit, chargrilled sourdough and judicious use of fresh herbs and olive oil. Anchovy sauce and parmesan flakes gave bright-green English asparagus a one-two ‘umami’ flavour punch that threatened to knock out the delicate seasonal spears. Pasta dishes are freshly appealing and even a slow-cooked ragù of beef fillet and Chianti served with golden tagliatelle was a suitably summery affair on the hot day of our visit. We liked the idea of a main course frittata (organic eggs, ricotta and courgette) too. A spoonful of crème fraîche was the perfect acidic contrast to crumbly, buttery apricot and almond tart; opt for the likes of white peach sorbet if you need something lighter. The wine list starts at £20 a bottle; go by-the-glass and you’ll find intriguing options from Greece and Austria complementing the Italian staples.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009