Restaurants

  • Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley

     
  • Although he has split from the Gordon Ramsay group, Marcus Wareing is continuing to run his own restaurant (formerly called Pétrus) in the Berkeley hotel. The spacious dining room, with its plush claret velvet wall coverings and soft leather, has an air of sophisticated bonhomie. Wareing’s menus continually evolve and are given a modern edge with combinations such as scallops and cod confit with cauliflower, macadamia nuts, fourme d’ambert and white chocolate. We chose from the lunch menu which, although more expensive than last year, at £35 still represents good value. Cornish crab arrived with a mirepoix of marinated tuna, celery, apple and avocado. Sticky duck bun, blood orange and toasted cashews created a wonderful juxtaposition of textures to foie gras and sauternes mousse. Next up, a spectacularly good pork belly, which had been slow-cooked then quickly glazed, adding watercress, lemon and almonds for extra dimension. A rump of perfectly roasted Cornish lamb came with braised baby artichokes and asparagus, finished with a hint of fennel pollen. Desserts are especially good. The friable pastry of baked egg custard tart was a blithe companion for the ambrosial filling. Apricot tarte tatin displayed the full spectrum of sweetness and tartness. There are many pleasurable inclusions to meals here – an amuse-bouche of roasted tomato soup with basil crème fraîche; sauternes jelly with apple granita and vanilla cream at the pre-dessert stage; a delectable bon bon trolley. Restraint is needed with the serious and expensive wine list, which is an oenophile’s treasure trove with prestige labels from leading producers.

  • Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009

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  1. Posted by Phil Troughton on 14 Jan 2009 12:52

    If it’s a special night you are looking for, you really can't go wrong with this place. The décor is luxurious. The service is just right. The ingredients are often extravagant, and always cooked competently. And we got a tour of kitchen afterwards!
    But here’s the problem, it just felt like it was missing something. You expect to be blown away. For want of a better (less corny) phrase, there’s no “wow factor”. It’s almost like someone bought a 2 star restaurant by numbers kit.
    I really want to love this place, but unfortunately at the moment it just feels like a very safe bet. Take some risks Marcus and you might just get that 3rd star.

  2. Posted by Stephen Phipps on 23 Oct 2008 17:28

    Loved Petrus and the very high standards remain. Still one of the top restaurants in London with Marcus Wareing working his magic. Don't forget to chose the pork for main and the tour of the kitchens is a treat (but you need to ask).

  3. Posted by Jenee Libby on 17 Oct 2008 22:28

    The best meal of my life, I will never forget it.

  4. Posted by Alex Giantsis (registered user) on 20 Mar 2008 14:06

    It was amazing the best dinning experience I have ever had

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  • Details

  • The Berkeley, Wilton Place, Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RL
  • Area: Knightsbridge
  • Tel: 020 7235 1200
  • www.the-berkeley.co.uk
  • Book online
  • Category: Haute cuisine
  • Travel: Hyde Park Corner or Knightsbridge tube
  • Times: Lunch served noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri. Dinner served 6-10.45pm Mon-Sat
  • Price: Set lunch £35 3 courses. Set dinner £75 3 courses. Set meal £90 tasting menu
  • Credit cards: AmEx, DC, MC, V
  • Map

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