Restaurants

An enormous black Fort Knox of a door forbiddingly heaves ajar, allowing entry to Rhodes W1 from the street, unless you choose to go through the Cumberland hotel’s main entrance. Inside, a greeter and skinny hallway meet you, and from there it’s through to a smallish, windowless den beautifully designed by Kelly Hoppen in her signature black and taupe colours, brought to glittering life by contemporary chandeliers (dripping thousands of crystals), pearlised walls and crisp white linen. Menus sparkle too, dotted with gutsy French, Italian and British specialities such as frogs’ legs boudin, smoked eel soup – which was fabulous, flavour-packed and served with steaming hot morsels of deep-fried eel – an amazing cheese trolley and perfectly presented desserts. However, the 30% price hike is not so welcome; a three-course dinner is now £60, and there are £7-£10 supplements on dishes such as beef, veal and cheese. Nonetheless, foie gras terrine with roasted pigeon breast, unctuous date coulis and toasted brioche was faultlessly lovely and generously proportioned. Halibut with crab tortellini, buttered leeks and bacon was again generous and finely cooked, although dominated by its shellfish broth. Saddle of Welsh lamb consisted of just three small roundels, albeit sumptuously flavoured and served with ideally crisp-on-the-outside, soft-in-the-middle goat’s cheese gnocchi and caramelised sweetbreads. The international wine list of master sommelier Yves Desmaris offers 250 bins. Though there was no sign of the celebrated Gary Rhodes on our visit, his restaurant remains one to relish.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009