Restaurants

The decor is good enough to eat at this glass-sided corner site in the heart of Westminster. Amid acres of full-height glazing (through which you might spot the odd MP or minister scurrying by) and black polished concrete flooring, there is nori backlit behind the front desk, laid beneath the sushi counter top and running along the two glass sides of the restaurant. Original head chef Anthony Sousa Tam (ex of Nobu, Hakkasan and Tsunami) left a long time ago, but much of his innovative menu remains; its a suitably sophisticated carte to match these stylish surroundings. Regrettably, the cooking no longer evinces Tams delicate touch, but a cosmopolitan crowd still appreciates rare marble beef with super-skinny green bean tempura, and marinated lamb chops with miso-coated aubergine despite steep prices. In addition to old-school sushi and sashimi, more adventurous raw creations include ultra-soft razor clam sliced into ribbons and served on its own shell under a piquant ginger dressing. Weve heard some negative comments about service, but on our latest visit food arrived in an orderly fashion and the smiling staff paid us ample attention.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008