Restaurants

These modest beige and brown premises used to be nondescript Nakamura, but appear to be enjoying more success now. On our Saturday evening visit, every table was occupied, and some customers seemed quite familiar with the staff. The relaxed atmosphere was aided by modern upholstered chairs that had us feeling settled in for the night – which our neighbouring diners may well have been, judging by the earnest saké comparisons going on at their table. A refreshing Iki beer (similar to Hoegaarden in taste, but with a dash of green tea) is also recommended. The sushi, sashimi, tempura and noodles are rendered proficiently, but it’s the more obscure offerings that shine, such as buta kimchi gyoza (minced pork and chilli-pickled chinese leaf dumplings), iwashi bainiku age (sardine fillets and salt-pickled plum in batter) and mochi agedashi (deep-fried, nori-wrapped rice cakes). On the other hand, yaki tarako (grilled cod’s roe) was almost too dry to eat; and the pleasant decor ends abruptly at the stairs that lead up to the first-floor toilet, featuring a ghastly green carpet ingrained with grime.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008