Restaurants

Roll up, roll up. This is a two-ring sushi circus where every act is a dazzler, every dish has crunch and colour, and the two-lane conveyor belt goes round and round – where it stops, nobody knows. Adding to the festive atmosphere is a dramatic red and black colour scheme, bright Japanese lanterns and filigree screens. We can’t help but be worried by a sign that offers to reheat your food if it’s not hot enough. If we wanted reheated, microwaved food we could have stayed at home. The nigiri sushi here is the best bet, if a bit fridge-cold. Other dishes are more problematic. Our gyoza dumplings were oily and lacklustre, chicken yakitori was on the small side, and an off-the-belt order of udon noodles with fried tofu and boiled fish cake came without the promised fish cake. Handy, perhaps, for time-pressed office workers and sushi ingénues who don’t mind the lack of spontaneity or the surfeit of mayonnaise.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009