Restaurants

Opt for a window seat and a glowering Woolworths sign across the road will keep you rooted in gritty Westow Hill. Sit facing inwards, however, and the continental clutter at Numidie will whisk you to one of Pariss more Algerian-flavoured arrondissements. Its an amicable marriage: a picture of Zizou seems utterly at ease alongside one of Jacques Brel; and North African drums gather dust between wooden tables set with salt and pepper shakers made from miniature Bonne Maman conserve jars, and cabinets filled with Armagnac bottles. But cultural compatibility is most prominent in the food itself. Algerian influences are evident in starters such as spicy merguez sausages with pepperade and harissa, while the melt-in-the-mouth courgette and roquefort fritter with cherry and ginger compote is a more consciously European offering. Ditto the mains: from the slow-cooked, Berber-style lamb shank capping a mountain of couscous to a generous fillet steak, rich with truffle butter and served alongside a gratin dauphinoise that would have pleased the Dauphin himself. Locals seem well aware of their good fortune. Several regularly prop up the cavernous basement wine bar or chat affectionately with owner Serge Ismail over dinner.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008