Restaurants

Windows running the length of this new restaurant provide a long thin view of the council estate across the road, which obscures the river and, on the opposite bank, the Dome. Mez is in an odd position for an upmarket restaurant on the Isle of Dogs: in the hinterland between the financial area and the surrounding run-down estates. Understandably, it makes an effort to be refined. A map on the wall shows the birth of civilisation in the Fertile Crescent of Mesopotamia, and depicts Assyrian warriors riding across the desert. On our recent visit, service was generally efficient, despite of one waiter’s sternness. Things seemed more relaxed for a family across the aisle with a five-year-old child. While we scrutinised the menu, saç bread was brought, along with olive purée. Plenty of thought goes into dish presentation. Starters – zeytinyağli bakla (lightly simmered broad beans) and vezir cigiri (delicately fried chicken livers): both gorgeous – were accompanied by whole mini pides. To follow, the köfte in an ískender kebab was exceptional; and kuzu tandir (oven-cooked lamb) was subtly flavoured and served with couscous and some very nice steamed vegetables. With such excellent food, Mez deserves to do well.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008