Restaurants

Set across a curious mix of old and new properties, the Larder’s gigantic dining area has 110 covers and a large open kitchen. The menu is Middlesbrough-meets-Mediterranean, with Yorkshire ham, Swaledale cheese and cumberland sauce lining up against chorizo, duck confit and tapenade. Meat is extraordinarily good, so it’s a shame the accompaniments weren’t more impressive. Barnsley chop was pinky-red at the centre – a little underdone for many tastes, but nothing to grumble about; it was the undercooked aubergine that let the dish down. Luscious pork loin was lightly gratinéed with cheese, but while the apple sauce was welcome in this rich mix, the caramelised fruit on the side was bland and superfluous. A classic prawn cocktail starter, served in a porcelain beaker, was a success. Of the desserts, fondant-style chocolate pudding had a slightly burnt crust and soupy interior, but vanilla cheesecake topped with caramelised bananas was surprisingly light and delicious. We also liked the international selection of wines (18 by the glass), helpfully divided into stylistic categories. Despite the incorporation of a bar and shop, there has been little attempt to divide the space, so looking busy will always be a challenge here.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008