Restaurants

Nespole, or loquat, is a summer fruit, when it fruits in the UK at all. The Mediterranean climate is more its thing, so we were puzzled to find it sitting (along with buffalo mozzarella, bresaola, balsamic vinegar and various speciality olive oils) on the May menu at this so-called ‘sustainable’ eaterie. Once you’ve overcome the disappointment that the produce is not all from England, let alone born within the sound of Bow Bells, there’s much to like about this bright, sassy establishment. Meat is well-sourced, impressively cooked and generously portioned. Roast rack of lamb with dragoncello (a sauce of herbs and anchovies), and pork belly with ‘Sao Paolo’ feijoada (low on beans), were just fabulous, and we didn’t regret ordering a side of succulent cauliflower with almonds and chilli. Acorn House is a training establishment for local youngsters. While staff may occasionally struggle with placement of cutlery, they’ve certainly grasped the techniques of upselling, meeting a request for tap water with the suggestion we try a hazelnut bellini (£7). Would we like bread and olives? Not when they’re £2 and £4 respectively. Earlier in the day, drop by for salads, soups, sandwiches, juices, muffins and pastries.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009