Restaurants

The setting is magnificent: the soaring, arched interior of the grade I-listed Royal Exchange, surrounded by jewellery shops and huge 19th- century paintings depicting the City’s history. There are brasserie-style tables in the courtyard, next to the oval bar with its crustacea displays and flower arrangements. Alternatively, choose a leather chair in the quieter upstairs gallery, where some tables overlook the action below (French restaurant Sauterelle is also here). You can come for breakfast (pastries, muesli or a bacon sarnie), dinner or a drink after work, but lunchtimes are busiest – when the no-bookings policy means you may have to wait. Charcuterie, steak and caesar salad are typical offerings, though seafood is a strength, and probably the wisest choice: oysters, plateau de fruits de mer and caviar (City fat-cats can celebrate bonuses with Iranian beluga at £135/30g). Other dishes were mediocre. Lobster bisque was flavourful yet thin. A main of ‘Thai-baked sea bass in banana leaf’ was a sorry affair: a miserably small fillet with a single red chilli and sprig of coriander as garnish, plus a bowl of distinctly unaromatic rice. Nice to see seasonal samphire as a side dish; a pity its delicate briny flavour was swamped by the accompanying horse mushrooms. Crème brûlée and panna cotta are typical puddings.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008