Restaurants

Although housed within the Hoxton Hotel, opened in September 2006 by Pret a Manger co-founder Sinclair Beecham, the Hoxton Grille is operated independently: it’s the first London spot from the small Room Restaurants group, which has previously found success in Manchester and Leeds, so has rather more incentive to impress than eateries in similarly priced hotels (rooms are often under £100). It generally delivers on its promise. Served in an airy room dominated by bare-brick walls and exposed piping, the menu is made up of uncomplicated brasserie fare, such as a nicely executed prawn cocktail with mellow avocado sauce, but with a few lively, lovely touches. A starter of oyster mushrooms came with a delectable creamy sauce flavoured with vermouth and saffron, while a perfectly tender grilled pork cutlet was coloured by a more-delicate-than-it-sounds cider and parsley sauce. Devoid of flavour and charisma, linguini vongole let the side down badly, but the faultless service and decent wine list made it that much easier to swallow. Good stuff.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008