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With its dark wood tables, airy interior and white-painted brick walls (hung with Jack Vettriano prints), this is a laid-back daytime hangout. It provides well-heeled locals with salads, panini and steeply priced breakfasts (£7.90 for a fry-up). In the evening the place becomes an elegant little neighbourhood eaterie, offering a concise but appealing menu of brasserie classics: duck confit terrine; poached lemon sole; fig, mozzarella and parma ham salad. Service is friendly and efficient, but impatient diners should heed the menu’s warning that the freshly cooked food may take a while. Fortunately, it’s worth the wait. Asparagus and pea risotto was creamy without being overly rich; grilled lamb cutlets, served with feta and chickpea salad, were plump and juicy, with a hint of rosemary. From the short wine list (five reds and five whites), Vallobera Anada Rioja blanco was fresh and floral. For afters, we tried a marvellously tangy lemon and lime cheesecake with ginger biscuit base, and a dark chocolate mousse cake with a slightly cloying pool of Baileys cream.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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