Restaurants

Smart gastropub or upmarket neighbourhood restaurant? We’re not quite sure, but at 6.45pm on a Friday, the Empress, despite its mosaic tile floor, lofty ceilings and picture windows, feels like a crèche. Families are soon replaced by unfettered adults, better able to appreciate an impressive drinks list that’s heavy on cocktails but doesn’t skimp on draught beers. Starters take in lamb’s brain and foie gras parfait alongside a scotch beef broth too close to the tinned stuff for our liking. Mains quality veers from terrific to disappointing. Essex Saddleback pork loin chop looked wan and tasted dry, though the accompanying colcannon and parsley sauce helped alleviate this. Osso buco with white truffle mash, port and garlic jus was as good as it sounds, but a gigantic dollop of pea, mint and crème fraîche risotto looked and tasted like a cloying, savoury rice pudding. Even dessert left us conflicted; raspberry and frangipane tart tasted like mundane bakewell, but sour cream ice-cream was heavenly. Maybe we’ll try bar snacks next time; chips and gravy or salt and pepper squid with chilli sauce might offer the simplicity and quality missing from the restaurant.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009