Restaurants

Oliver Peyton’s restaurant in Heal’s furniture store is unexpectedly airy and peaceful, given the anarchy of Tottenham Court Road outside. There’s something decidedly childlike about this first-floor eaterie, with its pale oak, white-painted chairs and pastel colours. It was quiet on our midweek visit, with three floor staff looking after eight other tables. We ordered quickly from the short brasserie menu and our bottle of rosé arrived swiftly. It took several more promptings to receive tap water, then we settled in to wait. The wine was finished before the food arrived. A fish cake was moist, full of salmon and delicious: a shame the yolk in the poached egg was solid. Goat’s cheese salad came with pear that tasted tinned – the waiter, however, insisted it had been ‘slowly poached by the chef’. The chips arrived a full ten minutes later (‘we can’t make the fryer work any faster,’ said the harassed waiter). We had to help ourselves to cutlery from nearby tables; staff seemed to ignore customers’ waving hands. Meals is fine for a leisurely lunch when you’re furniture shopping, but give it a wide berth if you’ve anything else to do that day.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009