Restaurants

After walking past the crisp furniture and elegant accessories of Heals, Oliver Peytons Meals comes as something of a surprise. Done out (by architectural practice FAT) like a cross between an alpine lodge and a toddlers bedroom, the cut-out cupboards suggest a fairy tale landscape of foliage and stars, while fake wooden tablecloths and marshmallow pink chairs are the ironic side of twee. Its a surprisingly jaunty space, with a playfulness quite at odds with the carefully cultivated serenity elsewhere in the shop. The food doesnt quite taste as well as it reads, but its enjoyable, cultured and surprisingly generous: witness the splendid, sizeable fish cake topped with a perfectly poached egg (a better bet than the hearty steak sandwich served with average chips). Starters were also decent; a gentle blend of wild rice and smoked salmon came out ahead of a slightly clumsy asparagus and avocado salad. If youre still hungry after two courses, choose dessert from the incomparable selection of sweet treats at the Peyton & Byrne franchise on the ground floor. The squillionaires shortbread, in particular, is not far short of sensational.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008