Restaurants

Sweeping, rather swanky decor in cream and brown hues lends an air of modernity and class to this spacious branch of Noura: the first of a well-respected chain that brought a new sense of style to Londons Lebanese dining. Appealing to a monied international clientele, the place engenders a real sense of occasion. This was tempered on our recent visit by a few let-downs with the food. First off, we werent given the plate of salad vegetables that comes along with olives at the beginning of a high-end Lebanese meal (other diners had them). Then there were a couple of duff dishes: a vinegary tabouleh and a rather sad spinach fatayer that managed to be both soggy and burnt. Otherwise, we enjoyed moujadarra (an earthy mix of onions and lentils, topped with caramelised onions), thick and luscious houmous, moussaka (the Lebanese kind, with aubergine, tomato and onions only) and sfeeha (minced lamb in pastry, this time well flavoured, with perfect pastry). A bottle of Ksara gris de gris made a refined accompaniment. Service was black-suited and formal, but not unhelpful.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008