Il Bacio

Roughly 18 months after the Vortex Jazz Club relocated to Dalston having been forced from its N16 premises, Il Bacio followed it down the road. The family-run operation now supplements its two Stoke Newington and one Highbury eateries with a plainer café-restaurant directly under the Vortex, in the renovated but not quite regenerated Gillett Street. The newcomer has yet to engender the sort of raucous bonhomie that characterises its siblings. The food, however, is every bit as likeable and straightforward, served in portions that range from generous to gigantic. We were almost full after a starter of caprino alle perre: a sizeable poached pear (drizzled with honey) and a hunk of baked goat’s cheese as big as a fist. Above-par pizzas are similarly large; 15 on the main menu are joined by three or four specials. We also enjoyed culurgiones al pomodoro, a main of own-made, potato-packed ravioli. A nice addition to the area, all told, although we hope the soundtrack of melodramatic 1980s Italia-pop isn’t beamed upstairs between sets.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008

Services:

Booking: Booking advisable
Child facilities: Babies and children welcome: high chairs
Outdoor tables: 8, pavement
Takeaway service: Takeaway service; delivery (over £10 within 2-mile radius)

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