Restaurants

Displays of tempting antipasti and own-made breads, welcoming staff, a long dining area leading to a lovely airy conservatory (partly open-air in summer) and lively guests create a fantastic first impression at Napulé. Neither does the menu disappoint, with an interesting selection of starters and wood-fired pizzas served by the metre (whose toppings diners are strongly advised not to alter), plus a lengthy selection of specials and many seafood dishes. Unfortunately, the positive vibe isn’t quite matched by the cooking. An underwhelming plate of antipasti to share consisted of an ordinary selection of hams, olives and mozzarella garnished with raw carrot and sprigs of rocket. Mains were better, though: pizza regina vittoria (like a posh margherita with balls of buffalo mozzarella, basil leaves and cherry tomatoes) was tasty enough, and the steak special came rare as ordered, though it was served with an overpowering red wine and onion sauce. There’s no doubt that Napulé has a great atmosphere and lovely setting; if only it could raise the standard of its food a notch to match.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008